2015  HIKING, CYCLING,

& RV TRAVEL ADVENTURES

Denali AKA Mt. McKinley

 

   
 
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   HARDING ICEFIELD HIKE #1, p. 3

  WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 5

 
 

Continued from the previous page.

SCENES FROM THE HARDING ICEFIELD

It took us 3:32 hours to get to the high point on the trail (about 3,522 feet) at 4.5 miles from the parking area. Jim decided to sit there and enjoy the unique views of the immense snow-covered ice field, crevassed top of Exit Glacier, and beautiful green valley below.

Despite the clouds the weather was good at the top -- minimal breeze, comfortable temperature (40s F. probably) for the clothes we were wearing. 


Jim found a place to sit on these exposed rocks with great views in all directions.

I could see that two parallel trails merged and continued down from there to the edge of the ice, which has obviously receded and left scoured, exposed rock in its place:


Arrow marks end of trail that I can see from this vantage point but it goes farther than that toward the ice.

I descended another quarter mile but didn't go all the way to the edge of the ice.


Looking east toward Exit Glacier and the hanging glacier above it


Edge of Exit Glacier at edge of ice field, where melted ice has left gray, exposed bedrock


I stopped where the X is located; arrows mark the trail that continues down toward the ice.


I lost sight of the trail over the edge; not sure how far it goes but adventure-seekers
can keep going as far as they feel comfortable to the right, left, or ahead.

Now I know the trail goes at least half a mile further than I thought. Folks can roam around the edge of the ice field on the exposed rock formations in other directions, too, if they want:


Looking west across the exposed rock, snow, and ice field

Most of these rocks were under a bunch of snow three years ago when I went up there and I was hesitant that day to continue past where I could see recent footprints. I didn't want to end up in an unseen crevasse or something:

Above and below:  That's a shaggy mountain goat on the rocks to the left  (July 7, 2012)

We were disappointed to not see any mountain goats or black bears this time but we did see an adorable marmot up close on the way down the mountain.

He was quite plump and a different color than we've seen before. Most marmots in the Rockies are brown. This one was mostly gray and white. He was busy eating just a few feet from us:

 

We also saw some small birds where we turned around at the top. Apparently they are able to find enough food up there in the summer. 

When I got down as far as I wanted to go, I went back up to Jim at the high point. I was a little surprised to see a bunch of lupines on the lower trail:


Not much color among these exposed rocks except these pretty blue lupines


Jim's up there under the arrow; I noted the low clouds now covering the mountains to the north . . .

Although it was easier hiking today I think the tundra looked prettier in some ways three years ago with all the snow cover, especially since some new white stuff fell the night before I went up there and covered the old, dirty snow.

If that day had been sunny, too, wow -- what great pictures I could have gotten!

LESS LONELY ON THE TRAIL THIS TIME

Because of all the snow on the last two miles of the trail in early July three years ago, I didn't see a whole lot of other hikers up there and had the area near the ice field nearly to myself.

Later in the season and with minimal snow on the upper parts of the trail, this time we had more company but not until our descent. Three individuals signed the trail register before us this morning. We saw each of them at various points during our ascent. Halfway up a 50-something couple passed us. They didn't stay long at the top. We had it to ourselves 20 minutes or more, just like I did three years ago.

Above and below:  heading back down

 


Even the snow reflects blue where my trekking pole made a hole!


Jim uses his arms to balance himself in the slick snow.


Trail's free of snow now but it's a bit muddy where water is coming down the steep slope.


Other hikers come up through the boulder field as Jim reaches the edge of the rocks.

We began our descent after another four couples had reached the high point. On the way down we saw 60-70 people going up. I lost count at 30, and we were still in the tundra then.

Our timing was pretty good today with an 8:30 AM start. When I go back up by myself in a couple days I'll get an even earlier start. When no one else is around I'll call out "Hey, bear!" a lot. We may not have seen any bears today but we know they're around.

Jim and I each had bear spray today but didn't yell since we were often talking to each other. A few other hikers had bear bells or music to forewarn bears of their presence on the trail.

 
Nice view of Exit Glacier and the ice field from the bedrock as we descend to the grassy overlook


Descending through the upper Cliffs area; more and lower clouds now than on our ascent

Because of our bum knees the descent was harder on both of us than the ascent. There are numerous rock steps that reduce erosion but work our knees more than just a slope.

I could see some trail improvements made since I was up there the first time. Even though we took stronger than our usual OTC pain meds before the descent we were still tired and sore by the end of the hike.

 

 

 

It's no wonder we were tired and sore.

My GPS recorded 392 feet elevation at the Exit Glacier parking area and 3,522 feet at the high rocky point where we stopped to eat and rest. Total elevation gain and loss was 7,035 feet. My total distance was 9.46 miles, including wandering around the rocks near our high point. Jim stuck to the main trail and had 9 miles total, with just a bit less elevation gain/loss.

We both think it was worth it, though. The views of numerous mountains, the Resurrection valley, several glaciers, and the Harding Icefield are awesome.

[Note:  I took almost 400 photos on this first ice field hike, not knowing if I'd ever be back. I was determined to go back up again on a sunny day so I could get better pictures. That happened on Friday, two days later. I think the second set of pictures with blue sky is much better so check out that entry, too.]

Next entry:  photos from the lower Exit Glacier trails at Kenai Fjords National Park

Happy trails,

Sue
"Runtrails & Company" - Sue Norwood, Jim O'Neil, Cody the ultra Lab, and Casey-pup

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© 2015 Sue Norwood and Jim O'Neil

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