The scenery and outdoor recreation opportunities in and near Haines were
the reasons we chose to spend some time in this gorgeous area.
Months ago Jim signed up for the 148-mile Kluane to Chilkat International Bike
Relay (KCIBR), intending to ride it solo on June 20. It sounded like a good idea
at the time. <grin> We planned to spend two
weeks in Haines, the finish of the point-to-point race, so Jim could
train on the course, which follows the paved Haines Highway south from
Haines Junction through parts of the Yukon, British Columbia, and Alaska.
Haines Hwy. in the Yukon
We had a much shorter but more expensive and complicated way to get
to Haines from Whitehorse than taking the Alaska Hwy. west to Haines
Junction and the Haines Hwy. south to Haines.
If we'd hauled the Cameo down to Skagway we could
have boarded the ferry and ridden it to Haines. That's a
hassle with a large RV, however, and Jim wanted to see the relay course
southbound, the direction he'd be riding it.
We're both glad we chose to take the land route to Haines on
Tuesday because the drive is equally as spectacular as the one to Skagway
The higher elevations in BC were cold and windy;
fortunately, we didn't get into any rain or snow.
Driving the race route also gave Jim a new appreciation of the
difficulty of the bike relay.
Within a few days he decided not to ride it because of the long
ascents that would significantly slow him down on his mountain bike.
This is truly an event that calls for a lightweight, skinny-tire road
bike to make the time cut-offs -- and he doesn't have one of those. He
still had fun doing long rides in the Haines area as training for
another race in July.
After Jim made the decision to opt out of the Kluane-Chilkat bike relay we stayed in
Haines just one week instead of two. That gave us enough time to do
everything we wanted to do in the area.
THE DRIVE FROM WHITEHORSE TO HAINES
Here are map sections from
website that show the route on the Alaska Highway from Whitehorse
to Haines Junction, Yukon, then south on the Haines Highway to Haines,
This basic route has been used for centuries by Native Americans to
reach the interior of Canada from the coast. In the late 1800s, just
before the Klondike Gold Rush, Jack Dalton pioneered a route over the
Three Guardsmen and Chilkat passes to facilitate access to the gold
fields in the Yukon.
The Haines Hwy. we know today was originally built in 1943 as a military
road to connect to the newly built Alaska Hwy. It was paved sometime
after the war.
Alaska Hwy. between Whitehorse and Haines Jct.,
It took us about six hours to drive with the camper on this
scenic mountainous route, including two stops at rest areas, a three-minute
wait at a one-way work area west of Whitehorse, and U.S. customs at
Dawson Cache, Alaska.
Traffic was very light the whole way, especially southbound on the
Haines Hwy. We saw lots of RVs headed north on the Haines Hwy. About
eight were rental truck campers with "Let's Go!" front tags (Adventurer
There were several work zones on the Alaska Hwy. west of Whitehorse, up
to 8K long. They were all pretty smooth. This section was getting a major make-over:
The terrain was simply stunning. The St. Elias and Takhinsha Mountains
were on our right (west) the whole way south on the Haines Hwy., with
many glacier views. The road borders on Kluane National Park & Preserve
in the Yukon, Tatshenshini-Alsek Wilderness Provincial Park in BC, and
the Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve in Alaska.
We passed several pretty lakes and crossed numerous streams.
Foothills of the St. Elias Mountains near Haines
We had occasional glimpses of higher mountains to
the west but couldn't see
as far as 18.008-foot Mt. St. Elias, Canada's
Dezadeash Lake in the Yukon is several miles long.
Pretty mountain view with cool clouds
These mountains are higher than previous ones we've passed and have more
snow on them. The highway is so exceptionally beautiful that it has been designated
a National Scenic Byway.
The miles through the high passes in BC are the most spectacular. The
alpine area is different -- more green -- than the rocky tundra
going to Skagway yesterday.
The highest elevation is 3,510 feet at Chilkat Pass in BC.
The road takes its biggest dive from there
to sea level in just a few miles. The elevation at the Alaska border is
just 700 or 800 feet. Haines is at sea level.
The road follows wide river beds much of the way from the border to Haines
and passes through a bald eagle preserve. We saw a group of people getting
ready to raft or kayak down the Chilkat River. Later in the week I took
a guided raft tour down the river; I'll have a separate entry for
Despite all the glaciers
we passed the water in the Chilkat is cement-colored, not turquoise or blue.
All five kinds of Pacific salmon come up the river to spawn. One kind
comes up in May and June, so the eagles and bears are out now.
After all the driving yesterday and today it's ironic that we are now
only 15 water miles from Skagway! We're glad we did both drives, however. We
wouldn't have wanted to miss any of the scenery on either road.
Above and below: fish wheel a few miles north of Haines (the wheel
catches salmon in the netting)
Jim had his GPS going from Haines Jct. to Haines, noting all the loooong uphill
sections, pointing out aid stations, etc. If he had ridden the race I
would have been driving the route while he was cycling.
Jim also had concerns about the weather on race day. Rain, sleet, snow, and wind
could be a problem at the higher elevations. The route is very exposed much of the way,
as well as remote -- think grizzly bears and moose.
On our drive we saw one dark brown black bear yearling at the northern
end of the Haines Hwy. but I didn't get a picture of it. We saw five loose
horses along the Alaska Hwy. between Whitehorse and Haines Jct. There
were elk warning signs but we didn't see any elk.
bears are commonly sighted in Haines, including near the campground, so I
was very careful walking the dogs.
Moose track near our campground;
the tracks were about
eight feet apart, indicating it is One Big Moose!
On our first day here I took Cody out to the dog
walk along the back of the RV park and a police officer stopped. He
commented, "I see you brought some protection!" I asked,
He replied that someone had just reported seeing a grizzly bear in the
vicinity. Hmmm . . .
Never did see a
bear in Haines but there was at least one moose that liked to visit our
The BC-AK border is several miles south of the Chilkat and Three
Guardsmen passes. Like yesterday on our way to Skagway, crossing into
Alaska was no problem. That's good, because this time we had the camper
We waited about a minute to pull up to the gate. Because of the 12-foot
roof Jim went on the other side so the agent was on the passenger (my)
He was an affable young man. We felt comfortable commenting on the
beautiful scenery and Jim's race, which the agent is not looking forward
to -- a couple thousand people come through the crossing during
The agent looked
at our passports, petted the dogs but didn't look at their papers, asked
about our itinerary, if we purchased any goods in Canada, if we had any
alcohol, tobacco, or firearms, and cheerfully waved us on our way.
CAMPING AT THE HAINES HITCH-UP RV PARK
We really enjoyed staying in this
for a week. It's a pretty place with the largest spaces that we've seen
so far on this trip. We highly recommend it.
The sites at Haines Hitch-Up are grass, the driveways gravel. The dogs
love playing and lying in the soft grass.
We are in a pull-thru site with 30-amp electricity, water, sewer, cable
(lots of channels, including the History Channel and HGTV), and WiFi.
The campground internet is strong (better than our private MiFi) and we
have good Verizon phone signals.
Hitch-Up RV Park office
of the campground, looking NW
There are 92 sites. About 20 are pull-thrus,
some with 50-amp service. During our stay the park was only about half
full at most, and no one was ever right next to us.
We paid the more
cost-effective weekly rate at
$303.08 with tax = $43.30/day. The regular daily rate for sites like
ours is higher but includes a Good Sam discount.
When it's clear we
have nice views of mountains all around us. Looking south we can see a large
The glacier is in the far distance, easier to see with the naked eye
than in this photo.
Another view of our side of the campground, looking
east -- mountains in every direction!
There are two other private campgrounds in
Haines but we didn't like either one of them after seeing them. The one
by the harbor is crowded, all gravel, and very
windy by the water. The one near Fort Seward appears pretty run down.
The attractive public campgrounds at Chilkoot Lake
State Recreation Site and Chilkat State Park are out of town a few
miles, one to the north and one to the south. We drove and/or rode our bikes through
both of them. They look like very nice places to camp if you don't want full hookups.
Nice pull-thru site next to Chilkoot Lake
We stayed in Haines just one week, which gave us time to do everything we
wanted to do in the area. The next entries describe our activities in this
beautiful part of southeastern Alaska.
scenes in and around Haines -- harbor, totems, murals, Fort
Seward, Mud Bay Road, fish packing company, Chilkat State Park, etc.
"Runtrails & Company" - Sue Norwood, Jim O'Neil,
Cody the ultra Lab, and Casey-pup
© 2015 Sue Norwood and Jim O'Neil