(Continued from the last page.)
Uncertainty about where you're going and what you might find there can
be a lot of fun.
Having a mechanical breakdown along the way because you
didn't properly prepare your vehicle for the trip can definitely
spoil the fun.
There are lots of remote miles like this along the
This is near the NW end of Kluane Lake in the
If you're planning to drive to -- or even just around in --
are some things to consider about the condition of your vehicle(s) and
the size/type of RV you take. This isn't just some ordinary road trip
through the Lower 48 states.
CONDITION OF YOUR VEHICLE(S)
that your vehicle needs to be in excellent shape before beginning any
trip (heck, before going to the grocery store!). It's absolutely
critical when you're traveling several thousand miles through remote
There are a number of reasons why Jim and I chose this year to go to
Alaska despite the exorbitant fuel prices and record-breaking snow. (At
the time, we didn't know this summer would be wetter and colder than
Snow still covered the ground at 2,600 feet near
Thompson Pass on the
Richardson Hwy. and near sea level in the town of
Valdez in mid-June. (6-14-12)
One of the reasons we went up there this year was because --
like us -- our truck and camper aren't getting any younger. Our
2008 Dodge Ram had exactly 78,000 miles on it when we began this trip in
Virginia. Right now it has over 91,000 miles on it. It will have nearly
94,000 miles on it by the time this trip is officially over.
One of the reasons it runs so well is that Jim takes excellent care
of it and does his own maintenance on or before schedule.
Jim changes the oil and fuel filters on
the truck at regular intervals.
Ditto with the camper. He spends a lot of time keeping it in tip-top
While we were in Anchorage Jim
re-welded a weak spot on our camper steps
and repainted them. Good thing the metal picnic
table at our campsite was black, too!
One of his more labor-intensive jobs was replacing
the shackles and wet bolts earlier this year.
In this photo Jim's explaining what he's doing to
an RVing neighbor at Imperial Dam, CA. (2-20-12)
I haven't added up the Cameo 5th-wheel miles
yet; they are lower, but will still be at least 11,000 miles by
the time we get back East to make sure our house is still there.
We've had our 2010
Cameo for over 2½ years now. It is built much stronger than the
previous 5th-wheels we've owned. Despite all the bumps it took this summer on rough roads in Alaska and Canada it has held up
magnificently. Even though Carriage went bankrupt earlier this year
(after our two-year bumper-to-bumper warranty expired, but before the
five-year-frame warranty did) this coach is built not only for full-time
use but also for treks to Alaska!
Soon after we bought the Cameo
Jim installed new Timbrens shock absorbers on the truck.
The only problem was with the basic hitch head we have. As mentioned
in the last entry, the sliding handle (next photo) got bent on the way
back to the Lower 48 and was a bear to get back out so Jim could unhook
the truck from the camper:
The manufacturer promptly replaced it at no cost to us and Jim
installed the new one. We now consider that a temporary fix, though.
We should have gotten a better hitch when we
bought the Cameo, or certainly before heading up the Alcan (another
name for the Alaska Hwy.). Jim is researching air hitches and better Mor/ryde
pin boxes now so we don't have this problem again.
Current Mor/ryde pin box
(attached to camper) and Curt hitch (attached to bed of truck)
Keep this in mind if you plan to tow any kind of trailer to Alaska.
You'll have a smoother ride with a hitch that helps even out the lateral
and longitudinal forces between the truck and camper and it will cause
less stress to the vehicles.
Be sure all parts of your vehicles are in excellent condition before heading to
Alaska and do required maintenance on them while there. If you need to
change the oil or rotate the tires or get new brake pads while you're traveling,
for example, do it or have
it done when it should be -- or earlier.
The newer your
tires, the better. We heard that we should take more than one spare tire
just in case but we never saw even one traveler fixing a flat
tire on this trip. You'll minimize tire problems if you drive carefully
over rough spots and have a tire pressure monitoring system that alerts
you to anomalies in your tire pressure and temperature.
Our TPMS continuously measures changes in the tire
pressure (L. number) and temperature (R. number)
of all four camper tires as we're driving. We can
set high and low warning alarms for each function.
Be sure your brakes are in good working order. There are numerous
long 8-10% grades down to river valleys and back up. I've never seen so
many broad rivers in my entire life as there are on the Alaska Highway.
It goes through numerous drainage areas.
We had more elevation change because of streams than going up and
down through various mountain ranges this summer. Elevations on the
Alaska Hwy. range from about 1,000 feet to about 4,250 feet but often
run in the 2,000-2,400-foot range. Other routes may get higher. In
Alaska we drove from sea level to no more than about 3,000 feet on paved
highways with the RV in tow.
Heading down to a bridge in
eastern Alaska; the Alaska Hwy. is a real roller-coaster,
with many long descents down to
rivers and then back up again. (9-6-12)
It's a long way between some of the towns in Alaska and through
northern Canada. The more you know about fixing your own vehicle problems, the
better. It's a good idea to have some type of emergency road service but
even with that it could be a long wait before a tow truck or mechanic
can reach you in some areas.
IS 4WD REQUIRED?
That depends on when you're traveling through northern Canada and
Alaska and whether you want to get out on some rugged dirt/gravel roads
in your passenger vehicle (not RV!!) while you're there.
We did fine towing our 36-foot 5th-wheel coach (14,000+ pounds) with
our 2WD truck while in Alaska and Canada during the summer months when there was no
snow on the roadways. We mostly avoided dirt roads when we did day trips
in just the truck. The rather new tires have good traction but we didn't
want to shake the truck so much on seriously bumpy roads that we'd knock
it out of alignment or cause other damage.
Jim doesn't think the truck needs re-aligning when we get back to
Virginia because the tires are wearing evenly and the front end doesn't
"pull" to one side or the other. That's good, considering the stress
under which we put the Ram this summer.
Just before we began our journey
to Alaska Jim repacked the bearings on the camper tires.
If you're driving through Alaska and/or northern Canada in the
shoulder seasons (late spring/early fall) or during the winter it would
be wise to have 4WD on your truck if you have a camper top on it or you're towing a trailer.
Major roads are reportedly kept clear but you could easily get caught
in a sudden late spring or early autumn snowstorm and be stuck for a day or two before the road is
plowed or sanded.
I'd also recommend 4WD if you want to have fun in your truck or toad
(vehicle towed behind a motorhome) on rugged dirt roads like the Denali
Hwy. between Cantwell and Paxson, AK, Hatcher Pass Rd. between Willow
and Independence Mine, the two roads in Wrangell-St. Elias NP, and
There are more dirt roads like these in the Far North than paved
The paved part of Hatcher Pass
Road (below) to Independence Mine is smooth but the
dirt road beyond that (above) to the pass and over to Willow, AK is rough and
There are some better-maintained dirt roads where folks drive their
RVs in Alaska and northern Canada but I think they'd be more suitable
for truck campers, vans, and motorhomes than 5th-wheels and travel trailers.
Examples are the
Dalton Hwy. in Alaska to Prudhoe Bay, the Steese Hwy. north of Fairbanks
to Circle, AK, the Top of the World Hwy. between Dawson City, YT and
Chicken, AK, and the Campbell Hwy. between Watson Lake and Carmacks in
If you choose to drive any of those allow plenty of time for slow
driving, keep your fuel tank topped off as much as possible, and carry
TYPE OF RV
We saw every type and size of RV on the roads to and in Alaska, from
little old VW vans and truck campers to brand new half-million dollar Class A motorhomes.
I'm not sure who was having more fun. They all looked like they
Here's an interesting combo we
saw on the Seward Highway -- a bus that's
been converted into an RV,
pulling a coordinating VW bug. (6-27-12)
There's an advantage to taking a well-used pop-up camper, travel
trailer, or 5th-wheel coach to Alaska -- you don't have to worry about
damaging a shiny new one.
Just be sure you're towing it with a reliable
truck. It's the vehicle with the motor that really counts on a long,
remote trip like this. I'd certainly advise against taking an unreliable
Class A, B, or C motorhome up there because of potential mechanical
problems that might leave you stranded somewhere really inconvenient
(makes me wonder about that bus, above).
You also have to consider availability of parts and how long it might
take to have them shipped to you, if that is necessary.
Our 5th-wheel coach is sandwiched
between two Class C motorhomes (foreground) and a
Class B van and Class A
motorhome (background) at Tags RV Park in Watson Lake, YT.
On the way back through Canada recently Jim and I got into an
interesting discussion about what we might do differently when we go back up
to Alaska in the future.
One thing that I think would make the trip
easier and more comfortable for us is to take some type of motorhome
instead of a 5th-wheel trailer.
For the two of us and one or two dogs, that
would probably mean a medium-sized Class A or C motorhome, not a smaller
Class B van-type RV. I think the
suspension system on a well-built motorhome would handle rough roads
better than any type of trailer, even if we got an expensive air hitch
for the Cameo.
SIZE OF RV
Size considerations may be more important to you than the
type of RV you take to Alaska. What length is best? How many slides?
The answers depend on the amount of interior
space and/or level of comfort you want,
how much you want to spend on fuel,
the types of places where you want to camp, and how much maneuverability
Sunset at Black Spruce CG at
Joint Base Elmendorf-Richardson in Anchorage;
we saw every size and type of RV
here during three separate stays in June, July, and
August -- but no sunsets until
the last time
(think "Land of the Midnight Sun"). (8-17-12)
The equation is pretty simple -- the smaller the camper, the
more campsite options you have, the cheaper it's probably going to cost
to buy, drive, or tow it, and the easier it will be to maneuver through
tight gas stations, narrow campground roads, etc. What you gain in those
respects you'll lose in living space.
Only you can decide which of those factors are most important to you.
Stopped for a short break at one
of many scenic lakes along the Alaska Hwy. east of Tok; this sign
says no camping but you can stay
overnight at most of the other turn-outs like this in Alaska.
Our 5th-wheel coach is 36 feet long. That's not the longest 5th-wheel
made but it's close. Our three slides extend the width from about 8 feet
4 inches (closed, as in the photo above) to 14 feet when they are open. We got a big rig because we live in it ten months of
the year and it's very comfortable for us and one or two big dogs.
We know it costs more to haul than a smaller camper would. At an
average of 12 MPG our cost for diesel fuel will always be high. We've
made a conscious decision not to let that hamper the nomadic lifestyle
We know that with a relatively big rig we also have fewer campsite options, particularly in public
campgrounds, because our camper requires so much space for its length
and lateral slide-outs. It also requires a lot of maneuvering room, not
only in campgrounds but also in gas stations and other tight spaces we
sometimes have to get into and out of.
This large, double site at
Russian River NFS campground would have been
perfect for us if we'd known to
reserve it. Instead, a very small Class C camped there.
It could have fit into any of the
smaller sites if the owners had been more considerate. (7-2-12)
Jim's very good at backing into
campsites that might be too small for less-experienced RVers but he
knows his limits. Some sites and some campgrounds just aren't suitable
for us, like the one we initially reserved at Russian River (discussed
on a previous page).
That said, we didn't have any significant problems finding suitable
campsites with a rather large RV during this whole trip, nor did
anyone else we talked to before, during, and after the trip.
We stayed in
various provincial, state, and national parks and forests, several
military campgrounds, a few private campgrounds, and several roadside
turn-outs and Walmart or Sam's Club parking lots (we boon-dock like this only in transit, not
at destinations where we unhook the truck).
There are also numerous private parking lot-type "campgrounds" in
both Alaska and northern Canada that will accommodate large RVs. We
mostly avoided those because the sites were so close together and there
weren't any trees or grass except perhaps around the perimeter.
This unusual truck camper from
Europe will fit in any campsite.
We saw it at Denali National Park
in early August.
Before our trip we talked about buying a camper top for the truck and
taking just that to Alaska, then selling it when we got back to Virginia.
We are soooo glad for so many reasons that we didn't do that. We would have
been miserable before we even got to Alaska. But that's us. We
did see some older couples who were touring Alaska in truck campers and
they hadn't gone berserk yet! (Some even had dogs.)
If you have a larger RV don't worry about finding campsites in
Alaska or northern Canada. There are plenty of options. If you can
afford the gas or diesel for a large rig and it's in good condition,
Despite some rain we enjoyed the
Williwaw NFS campground in Portage Valley. Many
of the sites are large and we had
a great view of one of the hanging blue glaciers. (7-15-12)
If you're considering purchasing a different kind of RV than you
already have, carefully weigh the factors that are important to you and buy
one that will meet your needs for all the kinds of camping you
intend to do, not just Alaska.
You don't need any one particular type or size of RV for an Alaska
Continued on next page: some tips re:
communications (phone, internet) and border crossings
"Runtrails & Company" - Sue Norwood, Jim O'Neil,
and Cody the ultra Lab
© 2012 Sue Norwood and Jim O'Neil